E.A. 1/1 S.V.

E.A. 1/1 S.V. is a progressive fashion label founded in 2002 by Croatian fashion designer and visual artist, Silvio Vujičić. It is known for connecting fashion with relevant topics of contemporary culture, such as masculinity, religion, politics and the arts, as well as for featuring paper as a material in garment production, alongside permanently pleated cottons and linens. It uses unconventional and chemically treated fabrics, creating new, luxurious textiles originally not intended to be used in high-end fashion. These transformations are achieved by using elements such as chemical perforations and pleatings, paper fusing, silicone coating and multiple layering of prints, using screen-printing as a constant medium in its work. The brand produces both ready-to-wear collections and unique pieces, including womenswear and menswear. E.A. 1/1 S.V. displays its collections in unusual fashion settings. In 2020 the brand developed an AI named Soll, becoming the first fashion label to have a designer with artificial intelligence. The headquarters of E.A. 1/1 S.V. are in Zagreb (HR).

1. History

The label was founded in 2002 in Zagreb, Croatia, by Silvio Vujičić, two years after he won the award for the most creative collection in the Mittelmoda contest of 2000. There he used paper and recycled non-woven materials to emphasize the disposable nature of clothing and start communication about the upcycling process of fashion garments. The name ‘E.A. 1/1 S.V.’ is inspired by the way the artist’s proof prints are signed.

2. Corporate identity

Logotype:
The E.A. 1/1 S.V. logotype was created in 2002 by Silvio Vujičić, then a student at the Academy of Fine Arts, while he was in a printmaking studio learning how to sign his test linocuts. The fashion clothing line he was developing parallel to his art studies applied a similar process of fast mechanical reproduction, which inspired him to use the signature he had reserved for printmaking (signing the artist’s proof prints) as a sign for his collections. Brand label design started with the manually stamped numerator logo being covered with silicone, and it has since undergone various design transformations. The label was screen-printed for each collection until 2011, when it became a jacquard weave form. Type and graphic designer Nikola Đurek redesigned the logo in 2015.

Meaning of the E.A. 1/1 S.V. logo:
E.A. – Epreuve D’Artiste
1/1 – edition, number of copies in the series
S.V. – Silvio Vujičić

Labels and lines designed by Silvio Vujičić:
E.A. 1/1 S.V. – main womenswear and menswear line (since 2002)
E.A. 1/1 S.V. Unique Piece – single pieces of womenswear and menswear produced by hand in the studio (since 2007)
1/1 – diffusion line of E.A. 1/1 S.V., casual streetwear for younger men and women (launched occasionally since 2014)
E.A. 0/0 S.V. – special items for selected shops (2017–2018)

Label designed by Soll:
E.A. 1/1 A.I. – womenswear and menswear line (since 2020)

3. Fashion

E.A. 1/1 S.V. collections are designed by Silvio Vujičić in his E.A. 1/1 S.V. studio in Zagreb, and they are manufactured in Croatia. Most of the collection fabrics have been designed and produced in-house in quantities required for a collection production. The process of design of both menswear and womenswear is based on the principle theme-idea-textile-silhouette, meaning the collection concept is the foundation, determining the silhouettes in each line.

The brand’s early years were characterized by its use of technical fabrics and those not initially intended to be used in a garment production industry, like fused felts, non-woven insulation fabrics, interlinings and paper. The radical change of materials with specific – and, for the fashion industry, uncommon – techniques of dyeing has made the brand locally unique. Due to the fabrics’ newly-gained nature, it has contributed to the research of a more abstract silhouette.

The Fall-Winter 2011/2012 collection presented a new direction for the brand. E.A. 1/1 S.V. introduced different silhouette shapes achieved mostly by the draping of newly-developed fabrics. Their transformation through various shibori techniques and modernized recipes of Croatian folk culture resulted in permanently pleated linens and cottons that can be machine-washed at high temperatures with no danger of smoothing out. Heavy application of screen-printing techniques using printing bases and dyes made both industrially and in-house, which redesigned the entire textile, became more intensively used in collections. Menswear silhouettes became less experimental in time and almost utilitarian, but densely implemented with data on the surface of the clothing, usually in a printed form (such as multiple layers of different screen-printed images on top of each other). Womenswear kept unique and more experimental pieces in every collection. The brand also started production of garments dyed with organic dyes, produced in-house, of plant or animal origin, as well as garments with intricate details produced by hand (applications, embroidery, silicone coating, hand knit). 

All of these processes and techniques have become the brand’s core style and are still in use today. Much of the E.A. 1/1 S.V. approach still comes from the initial intention to create controversial garments and concepts: an item of clothing that is designed to question itself as well as the social and cultural surroundings. Other themes that occupy the brand vary from those of more historical and cultural significance, like traditional heritage and symbolism, to erotic and floral imagery, voids, digital viruses and techno culture.

Since 2016 more casual, youth-oriented collections have been introduced by the brand (USKOK T-shirt, Silicone S1 Series, Dot Cap), as well as garments from the brand’s frequent pop-up projects, which question local and European political decisions, corruption and social injustice. These products are put on the market as a quick response to the problem; thus they end up being consumed around the time the topic is still current.

Developing one of the possible futures of fashion design, and going beyond individual durability, creativity and intelligence, in 2020 the brand developed Soll, a designer with artificial intelligence. Soll started its sub-label, E.A. 1/1 A.I., as a unisex collection of garments and accessories.

The brand is known for an unconventional approach to presenting seasonal collections outside fashion weeks or similar events, in private apartments, under bridges, and in adapted back gardens.

4. Collections (selected)

DesignerSeasonCollectionNameLineTheme
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2020Menswear Collectionno known nameReady-to-wearBonding past  
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2019/ 2020Womenswear and Menswear Collectionno known nameReady-to-wearJewish symbolism
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2019Womenswear and Menswear CollectionS/S 5779Ready-to-wearTraditional Jewish heritage and techno culture      
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2018/2019Menswear Collectionno known nameReady-to-wearCoating transformations    
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2018Womenswear Collectionno known nameReady-to-wearBallpen stencil drawings  
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2018Menswear CollectionRust BloomReady-to-wearShakespeare’s Tempest, potato flowers and rust metamorphosis
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2017/ 2018Menswear CollectionOccupying SpaceReady-to-wearSymbols, thresholds and territory    
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2017Womenswear CollectionAnguilla AnguillaReady-to-wearEels and underwear-dress interchange  
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2016/ 2017Womenswear and Menswear CollectionHanding CycleReady-to-wearTraditional Baranja folk costume  
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2015/ 2016  Womenswear and Menswear CollectionStill LifeReady-to-wearStill life in a herbarium
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2013Womenswear CollectionAbandoned and ForgottenReady-to-wearAbandoned processes
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2012Womenswear CollectionCyanideReady-to-wearHortensia flower
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2011/ 2012Womenswear CollectionDiscarnateReady-to-wearFuneral
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2011Womenswear CollectionKoloReady-to-wearTraditional Kolo dance
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2010/ 2011  Womenswear and Menswear CollectionGridironUnique piecesPerforations    
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2009Womenswear CollectionApparitionsUnique pieces Ghosts
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2006/ 2007Womenswear and Menswear CollectionExposed to Virus and Fashion Collection (not to be confused with the artwork of the same title)Unique piecesDigital virus and textiles
Silvio VujičićFall/ Winter 2005/ 2006Womenswear and Menswear CollectionInside the Tunnel  Ready-to-wearMembranes and holes    
Silvio VujičićSpring/ Summer 2005Menswear CollectionDarkroom Edition  Unique piecesPornographic imagery  
Silvio Vujičić2005Home decorHome Collection for AAGMosquitoes

Pop-up events:

DateNameLocationTheme
September 17th, 2020 – October 3rd, 2020The Lilies SeriesTouch Me Festival by KONTEJNER – bureau of contemporary art praxis, The Nikola Tesla Technical Museum, Zagreb, CroatiaMutant creatures and hybrid pigments
December 14th, 2019Rape of Europa Pop-Up StoreFormer Sauna and Gym Cafe,
Trg Petra Svačića 7, Zagreb, Croatia
Mythology and collapse of the EU
September 18th, 2019 – October 10th, 2019  E.A. 1/1 S.V.
EX-LOVE Pop-In Store
Extravagant Bodies: Extravagant Love Festival by KONTEJNER – bureau of contemporary art praxis, The Nikola Tesla Technical Museum, Zagreb, CroatiaExtraordinary love relationships  
September 14, 2018USKOK Pop-Up ShopWrestling-club changing room, Medika, Pierottijeva 11, Zagreb, CroatiaPolitics and crime
December 4, 2016Damir’s TalesKino Tuškanac, Tuškanac 1, Zagreb, Croatia  Isolation, sex and society in transit
October 19, 2016Silicone S1 Fluorescent Series Duboko Unutra Pavilion, Mesnička 7, Zagreb, CroatiaVirtual bodily excrement  
July 20, 2016SILVIO силвиоDuboko Unutra Pavilion, Mesnička 7, Zagreb, CroatiaForgotten alphabet  
June 22, 2016  Tko je Zlatan?/ Who is Zlatan?Duboko Unutra Pavilion, Mesnička 7, Zagreb, CroatiaPeculiar local political and cultural context  
May 25, 2016Lend a Hand, Lend a FootDuboko Unutra Pavilion, Mesnička 7, Zagreb, CroatiaSymbolism and fetish
February 6, 2016Darkroom SeriesDuboko Unutra Pavilion, Mesnička 7, Zagreb, CroatiaUn/visibility of pornography in public space
November 26, 2015Sava Silicone S1 Pop-Up ShopTrnjanski nasip, Most slobode (Liberty Bridge), Zagreb, Croatia, Zagreb, CroatiaStigmatised urban sites
October 10, 2015Ilica 12 Pop-Up ShopIlica 12/1, Zagreb, CroatiaIllusion of bourgeois society
September 27, 2015Underwear SeriesDuboko Unutra Pavilion, Mesnička 7, Zagreb, CroatiaSelfie as a form of social portrait
September 18, 2015DuBOko UNuTRa TDuboko Unutra Pavilion, Mesnička 7, Zagreb, CroatiaConcept store launch  

5. Marketing

For its pop-up projects, E.A. 1/1 S.V. uses guerrilla marketing and other alternative methods of advertising atypical of fashion systems, such as screen-printed posters, street graffiti and tear-off flyers. Posters generally do not include the brand’s name or the event’s address. due to their illegal placement in public space or the sexually explicit or political message, but do include the date of the event. Public space becomes a forum for expressing strong opinions about current topics, sometimes resulting in outrage from the public. In 2014, E.A. 1/1 S.V. started experimenting with multimedia advertising, mostly in the form of short films for social media. Damir’s Tales is one of the most complex ads the brand has produced for its Silicone S1 Series. The 30-minute-long ad premiered in a cinema, and, due to its controversial topic, left half of the cinema empty.

6. Stores

n600e134, Jurišićeva 28, Zagreb, Croatia, 2021
DuBOko UNuTRa, Mesnička ulica 7, Zagreb, Croatia, 2014–2018
Nova Rupa, Mesnička ulica 29, Zagreb, Croatia, 2004–2005

7. Exhibitions

2019/20, E.A. 1/1 S.V., Hat off! A Story about (Un)Covering the Head, Ethnographic Museum Zagreb, Croatia (group show)
2018, E.A. 1/1 S.V. DuBOko UNuTRa, HDD (Croatian Designers Association), Zagreb, Croatia (solo show)
2003, Imagerie – art fashion, Revoltella Museum, Trieste, Italy (group show)

8. Recognition

2012, Elle Style Award for best Croatian fashion designer
2000, Mittelmoda Award for the most creative collection, awarded by the Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana

9. Collaborators

Video and film: Ivan Slipčević
Photographers: Karla Jurić, Mare Milin, Ivan Filipović, Ivan Slipčević, Sandra Vitaljić, Kristina Lenard and others
Models: Staš Mlinar, Bernarda Cenkovčan, Janko Marjan, Ines Zjakić, Damjan Brundić, Marija Ćurić, Mate Jonjić, Bruna Tironi, Zrinka Užbinec, Matija Baotić, Filip Fikke, Marko Kasalo, Tomislav Hvasta, Pavel Beljan, Matej Šovanj and others